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How to breed Red-Eyed Treefrogs

adult red-eyed treefrog

Lizards are my passionate interest, but they aren’t the only herps I’ve kept and bred.

I’ve always found red-eyed treefrogs interesting. One of my sons was particularly interested in frogs as a teenager, so I acquired a group of Red-Eyed Treefrogs (Agalychnis callidryas), with the intention of breeding them, as a fun project that we could enjoy together.

For breeding, keeping several individuals in a group with more males than females is said to be preferable. Supposedly males become competitive during periods of breeding, increasing the odds of success. We had 4 males and 2 females in our group.

Adult females are larger and more heavily built than males. Adult males in breeding condition have nuptial pads on their thumbs.

We successfully bred the frogs several times over about 18 months, resulting in hundreds of tiny froglets. The following guidelines are based on that experience.

A couple of our baby red-eyed treefrogs

Red-Eyed Treefrog Care


Red eye treefrogs can be housed in large glass terraria that have been created as beautiful displays of plants.

Because we wanted to limit our variables and focus on the frogs and how to breed them, we opted for a much simpler habitat: a 73 quart clear plastic storage container. For ventilation I used a soldering iron to melt holes every couple of inches in a grid on 2 sides of the tub.

Dry paper towels serve  as a substrate. A shoe-box size clear plastic storage container half filled with water serves as a pond. A second identical contaner serves as a deep food dish that keeps prey items in. In the pond grows a large pothos vine. The vine was purchased in a 6″ pot, and then the pot was removed and all soil thoroughly washed from the roots and the leaves thoroughly washed as well. This type of vine grows very well directly in water without soil. The vine gives some interest to the frog habitat and is something for them to crawl on. The roots give the treefrogs easy access to the water in the pond without risk of drowning.

These frogs are not great swimmers- water depth should be shallow enough prevent accidental drowning.


This frog needs adequate ventilation and medium humidity.

Constantly damp, humid, low ventilation conditions are not good for these frogs.

We found that misting the enclosure or keeping a damp substrate was not necessary or desirable and can have a strong negative effect on the frogs. This is significant as many care guides we found on the Internet were incorrect and recommended high humidity levels of 80-100%. Those levels are too high, at least when combined with limited ventilation.

As long as there is a pond available for soaking the frogs will hydrate themselves as needed, and the respiration of the pothos vine provides adequate for ambient humidity in our situation.

Temperature Requirements

In our home, ambient room temperature is about 67 on cold days and nights in the winter on up to about 78 in the summer. The room we kept the frogs in tends to warm up a few degrees more than this during the warmest part of the day. At these temperatures these frogs thrive. We used the winter/summer temperature difference to help cycle the frogs when first breeding them. Later we found this was probably not necessary. Babies do best with temperatures kept in the mid to upper mid 70s.


If the room is well lit and the frog enclosure is kept near a well lit window (but out of direct sunlight which could cook the frogs) then no further lighting is needed.


All the usual food insects may be offered. Our primary feeder is dubia roaches. Occasional mealworms and crickets help to round out the diet. Calcium is dusted on prey items every feeding and a multivitamin with d3 is used once every week. We offer 5 insects per frog and it usually takes 2 or 3 days for all the insects to be consumed. Because of the deep food dish we offer food in (a plastic shoebox style container) food items do not wander about the terrarium and attack frogs before being consumed. Baby frogs are fed fruit flies, baby mealworms and baby crickets.

red-eye treefrog breeding setup
Red-Eyed Treefrog breeding setup

Red-Eyed Treefrog Breeding

We started breeding by allowing our frogs to overwinter at our cooler room temperatures. We also cut back on the amount fed quite a bit, until late winter. Spring came, the frogs warmed up, and we fed to fatten them up, waiting for the first rains.

We built our rain chamber to breed the frogs in.

And we waited.

That year was a dry spring.

Frogs are said to be sensitive to barometric pressure, so attempting to breed them when it is actually raining outside is supposed to improve the chances of success significantly.

Finally the rains came and we put our frogs in the chamber and turned on the pump.

Our rain chamber is simple to construct. A couple of 73 quart rubbermaid storage containers- one placed upside down over the other, serve as the terrarium. I cut a several inch wide strip of plastic table cloth and the boys and I taped this to the outside of the top enclosure most of the way down and then tucked this into the bottom enclosure to keep water from leaking out onto the floor during the rain. You can get a better idea of this “rainskirt” by looking at the rain chamberer in the middle of the picture above. I have no doubt there are better ways to do this, but we were using materials we had on hand already without buying stuff. I used a small pond pump and ran the water line from the pump up to the ceiling of the chamber and fastened it there. This consisted of clear tubing. I made a circle of the tubing that was nearly the diameter of the top of the rain chamber. I drilled many little holes in all directions in the tubing and bent the end over and fastened it down so the water was forced out of the little holes when the pump came on. I also hung a big pothos vine by it’s roots up there, so the vines dangled down to the bottom of the chamber and into the water- allowing the frogs a way out of the water so they could not drown. Enough water was added to just cover the pump. A timer is set on the pump so that it comes on 4 times in 24 hours. A short time in the mid-morning, a short time in late afternoon (short times about 30 minutes), a long time in the late evening (4 hours), a medium time around 2 am (2 hours). This works really well. The frogs pair off and produce eggs within 48 hours.

As time went on with a little experimentation, I found that the winter cooling was not necessary, nor was spring or summer weather, nor the rainy weather outdoors. The frogs would breed any time I felt like the females looked plump enough and put them in the chamber year round- even in the winter when temperatures were cooler and daylight hours shorter.

The females would sometimes lay eggs on different nights rather than all on one night. To avoid frogs climbing on and damaging the eggs, I preferred to cut the leaves with the eggs stuck to them from the vine and tie them on strings over water in another storage container where they developed and hatched, the tadpoles dropping into the water below several days after the eggs are laid. Watching the eggs develop is a lot of fun. The eggs are clear, like living jewels, so the developing embryos inside are clearly visible and the little things wriggle around in the eggs.

Newly-laid Red-Eye Treefrog eggs
Developing Red-Eyed Treefrog eggs
Developing Red-Eyed Treefrog eggs

Red-Eyed Treefrog Tadpole Care

Caring for the tadpoles is really easy. We used a soft foam style aquarium filter which prevents tiny newly hatched tadpoles from being harmed. When setting the tub up as an aquarium, I added a handful of java moss and a few java ferns from our fish tank. This provides beneficial bacteria that helps keep the water pure and tiny life for the tads to feed on when they first hatch. Tadpoles are treated like aquarium fish for the most part- they eat tropical fish flakes of all sorts, and I make sure to feed spirulina flakes or pellets every couple of feedings.

A simple and inexpensive sponge filter connected to an air-pump keeps the water clean and oxygenated. The indirect-sunlight from our window was all that was required to keep the plants healthy.

Filter for Red-Eyed Treefrog tadpoles
Closer view of Red-Eyed Treefrog tadpoles
Closer view of Red-Eyed Treefrog tadpoles
Red-Eyed Treefrog Tadpoles growing rear legs
Red-Eyed Treefrog Tadpoles growing rear legs
Red-Eyed Treefrog tadpole growing front legs
Red-Eyed Treefrog tadpole growing front legs

Caring for Red-Eyed Treefrog froglets

Once the tadpoles develop back legs, front legs can come on really quickly, so be prepared when those back legs come in. Front legs are kind of amazing- almost like they develop and then pop out suddenly. We found the safest thing to do is transfer late stage tadpoles into a transition terrarium. This is a very simple setup. A thin layer of aquarium gravel with water filling nearly to it’s top. A little puddle is made in the middle of the gravel by digging out a very shallow pit with gently sloping sides. This works far better for transitioning froglets than other setups we tried (floating vegetation, a big rock to climb out on, tilting the whole slightly container to create a gentle beach).

Froglet transition terrarium for Red-Eyed Treefrog tadpoles
Froglet transition terrarium for Red-Eyed Treefrog tadpoles

For a day or two after leaving the puddle, Red-Eyed Treefrog froglets climb and stick to the walls of their terrarium and just sit and absorb their tails.

Red-eyed Treefrog froglet absorbing tail
Red-Eyed Treefrog Froglet absorbing its tail
Morphing Red-Eyed Treefrog
Morphing Red-Eyed Treefrog

Once the tails are gone, the tiny Red-Eyed Treefrog froglets are transfered into rearing terraria; smaller enclosures with slightly damp paper towel substrate that is changed daily. They need to be kept in the mid to mid upper 70s and fed plenty of tiny insects as described already.

Baby Red-Eyed Treefrog rearing tubs
Baby Red-Eyed Treefrogs

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